top of page

The pleating diagrams are now in size layers.
This is not a printed pattern.  This is a digital download. 
You will be sent a link immediately upon ordering sent to the email using to order.  You will be sent several letter size files:  How to print, the front and back cover, the sewing instructions, and the entire pattern tiled in color.  You will be sent several A0 size files:  The entire pattern in color, the entire pattern in black and white and size layers, the pattern split in skirt 54" and 44", and all the pleating diagrams split by size layers.  This mean you need only print the size(s) you want.  For 54" wide fabric you print A0 Pages 1 and 2.  For 44" wide fabric you print A0 pages 3, 4, and 5.  Then you need only print one additional A0 page for the size needed.  This means you print no more than 4 pages to make the pattern.  

Laughing Moon Mercantile #181— Petticoat c. 1770s-1780s.   Intermediate Sewing Difficulty.  Please note this pattern may appear easy to make, but several of the construction techniques may be new even to experienced sewists.  Therefore it is not recommended for beginners.  The pattern uses a measuring tape and math to level the hem at the waist, and uses pleating diagrams.  Completing Instructions Steps 1, 2, and 3 is recommended before cutting.   This pattern uses pleating to reduce the size of the fabric to fit the waist.  Many of the pleats can be on the diagonal of the fabric.   Three different versions of the instructions are included in the download tailored to what may be worn under it:  One for no foundation worn under with no leveling, one to be worn over a split rump or bum pad, and one to be worn over pocket hoops.  
This sewing pattern has pattern pieces and instructions for making an 18th century petticoat, or better known in modern terms, skirt.  The pattern can be made with or without period stays and skirt foundations.  “Skirt Foundation” means a rump or pocket hoops, or any like artificial device worn under to modify the skirt silhouette.  Stays and skirt foundations are not included.  The center front has a flat box pleat with a width of 4 inches.  The center back meets with a small inverted box pleat.  The rest of the pleats are knife pleats formed toward the center back.  The unfinished length of the petticoat pattern pieces is 45 inches.  This length can be modified by the user.  The sides are left open a distance of about 10 inches (optional length) so that the petticoat can be put on and off using side ties, and to offer access to any pockets worn underneath.  For 54” fabric the opening is at the side seams.  For 44” fabric this is done with a slashed and faced opening.  This pattern can be used for an under or outer petticoat.  This pattern includes separate pleating overlays (diagrams) for the front and back of the petticoat in every size listed, sizes 4 through 36 for a skirt measuring 106 in circumference.  The sewist will find this pattern useful if they would like having the pleating diagrams already done on how much to pleat the petticoat to fit your waist size for 54” and 44” fabric widths with a circumference of 106”.  If made with 54 inch wide fabric this petticoat is made in two pieces, one front and one back, with a total circumference of 106 inches.  If made with 44 inch wide fabric the petticoat is made with four pieces; one front, two sides and one back for a total circumference of 106 inches.  If the sewist want to use two full 60” or three full 44” widths, or any circumference other than 106 inches, they can, but the pleating diagrams will need to be modified by the user.  The method in this pattern that is used to level the petticoat (not the pleating overlays) can be used for any width petticoat or over any type of skirt foundation, such as #180 LMM Split Rump, other bum pads, or pocket hoops (excluding large panniers).  Hand sewing instructions using 18th century methods are not included but that information is available elsewhere - easily found in books and online tutorials.


181 18th C Petticoat with Instructions for Leveling over Rump and Pocket Hoops

    bottom of page